After a brief hiatus due to a busy February, the
Cookbook Challenge returns! For this edition, I brought out the meat grinder and cooked from the pages of
Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn.
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| A revolutionary cookbook |
Ruhlman is regarded as one of the best food writers in America, and I have talked about him in my blog several times before. His partner in this endeavor,
Brian Polcyn, is an award winning chef and instructor out of Michigan. He was prominently featured in Ruhlman's book, "
The Soul of a Chef." The two authored a fantastic book on charcuterie, and Polcyn is an expert in the subject.
What is
charcuterie? It is a broad term describing various prepared meat products (mainly). As the subtitle of the book indicates, it is "the craft of salting, smoking, and curing." Salt-cured foods, smoked meats, fresh sausages, confit, pâtés, terrines, dry-curing - Ruhlman and Polcyn cover it al.
Charcuterie was a game-changing, revolutionary cookbook when it was published in 2005. For the most part, we tend to buy all of our cured meat products. But the book made the art of
making your own bacon, perhaps some
pancetta, a little
fresh sausage, or even other
cured meat projects, seem accessible to the home cook. In recent years, it has become common to see restaurants offering their own charcuterie plates as appetizers. I believe that Ruhlman and Polcyn are largely responsible for bringing charcuterie to the masses.
For this
Cookbook Challenge, I am being a little selfish. I am not attempting any complex, cold-smoked Landjager sausage. I am not curing my own corned beef in advance of St. Patrick's Day. No, I am preparing a recipe I have made several times before, simply because I was out of breakfast sausage! And the "Breakfast Sausage with Fresh Ginger and Sage" from
Charcuterie is my go-to version. (Recipe can be
found here).
Have you ever purchased one of those tubes of Jimmy Dean sausage at the grocery store? This is basically a far superior homemade version. Ginger and sage are familiar flavors for breakfast sausage, and the recipe is loaded with both. In addition to the ginger and sage, there are only a few other easy-to-find ingredients that are necessary, and nothing too exotic - pork shoulder, minced garlic, kosher salt, black pepper, and some cold water.
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| Pork shoulder, fresh sage, ginger, and garlic |
It is very easy to make this if you have a meat grinder. I have one that attaches to my KitchenAid. If you don't have a meat grinder, you could always have your butcher grind some nice, fatty pork shoulder for you. Whatever you do, don't use lean ground pork. You will end up with a very dry sausage.
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| Ready to grind! |
Here is the finished product after grinding and before stirring in the cold water. The water acts to distribute the flavors and seasonings, and also helps to keep the sausage moist.
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| Freshly ground breakfast sausage |
You can stuff the sausage into casings if you wish, but I like to leave it in bulk. From there, you can use it for dishes like biscuits and gravy. I like to shape it into patties. Then I wrap and freeze a bunch of them so I can have a nice stash of awesome sausage for many future breakfasts.
The flavor of the sausage is fantastic. It's very well-seasoned and bursting with fresh ginger and sage flavors. Also, it stays nice and juicy when cooked, especially when shaped into patties. Excellent stuff! You will never buy store-bought breakfast sausage again.
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| Breakfast Sausage with Fresh Ginger and Sage |
For my breakfast today, I used the sausage to make a very tasty toasted bagel, egg, cheese, and sausage breakfast sandwich. Not a bad way to start the day, if I do say so myself.
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| Breakfast sandwich of champions! |
Feel free to play with the recipe, too. I have been known to add some crushed red pepper and pure maple syrup directly to meat to give it a sweet and spicy twist. Who doesn't like a little maple syrup with their breakfast sausage?
Charcuterie is an awesome book. I would encourage any enthusiastic home cook to pick up a copy if you don't already have one. It got me to try my hand at curing meats, something I never imagined I would be doing. Not too many cookbooks can truly inspire and open up a whole new world of possibilities. This one does. And it is also responsible for many delicious breakfasts.